![]() The walls sheetrocked, but NOT insulated. It's a three car shop/building, the ceiling insulated. It's in the lower left of the second pic in the shop. Not everyone's solution, just worked for me and thought it might be an option for you. I am loosing access to this space in the spring or summer and can just unplug and take the heater with me. Once I hit 55-60 degrees, I turn it off as that's warm enough for me out there.įor a touch over a hundred bucks, this was the ticket, no fumes, no wood burning, and it was fast to get it running. I run it on high, and I can raise the shop temp 40 degrees over a couple hours, and I am in Minnesota. The cord and or plug do not even get warm. I get instantly sick from unvented heaters that burn propane or kero. I have not seen the first full electric bill, but did not have any other options for temporary heat. This one is intended to plug into a 220 outlet. The draw is 21.8 as I recall he metered after it was done and connected, and we had an adequate circuit for it. We read the spec requirements from the PDF they had on the Northern web page for the heater, and he had me pick up some wire, the outlet and some parts, a plate and connections. We had 220 in the shop, but like you, anything that aint 12 volts and connected to a car or bike is not my thing.Īnother ADV inmate, "Eagle Todd" was kind enough to come over and rig me a 220 outlet. in the stores- had to wait for it to ship, but shipping to my nearest store was FREE, Month or so ago, I got this industrial heater on sale from Northern (it's listed on their site under 'industrial' heaters). Explosive vapors are heavier than air.Ģ0+ years in the electrical industry btw. In a commercial garage, any device below 4' from floor needs to be class 1 division 1 explosion proof. Mount the electric heater up high to avoid any combustible fumes from fuel spills etc. not only dangerous, made my eyes water terribly. ![]() Amazing how many electricians can't read a schematic, the two other techs couldn't, when sent to fix it!Īlso put in a 500 cfm exhaust fan (free on a demo job) and a rheostat, perfect for quickly removing solvent etc fumes in the winter. Took about 5 minutes tracing the wires and checking the schematic. Mine was "defective" as new, simply mis-wired at factory, thus free to me. Have had a 4000 watt 220 volt heater in my 2 car garage for years, it's the bomb. Insulation is, of course, thicker on the cord, as it is intended for portable equipment, and subject to more abuse than wiring concealed behind drywall, or in a raceway (i.e. Seal tite is fine if you already have it. Be sure to ream the inside of the conduit, even good to use a push on plastic bushing, so the romex does not get nicked. It would be fine to strip the outer sheath from the romex and sleeve it with conduit or flex.
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